karen millen dresses online “It’s about playing with shapes, playing with angles, playing with color,” says Jason Wu of his pre-fall 2015 collection—a lineup that owes its roots, somewhat surprisingly, to artist Dan Flavin. That tip of the hat shines brightest with the designer’s slinky nighttime number in evening emerald green: Its diagonal grooves, embroidered with tubular beads, smartly and originally invoke Flavin’s minimalist neon rods and fluorescent sculptures.Elsewhere, Wu’s strong point was indeed his thoughtfulness (and subsequent execution) in shape—see a wraparound T-shirt dress rendered from one swath of fabric (and also embellished with those light-like beads), perfectly cut swishy cashmere tuxedo pants, or the arcing shoulder of a cerulean overcoat. Those bolstered his M.O.—“to be a luxury American sportswear line, done with finesse”—with plenty of supporting evidence. Likewise regarding his use of rarefied materials: pony skin, ultrafine cloqué, and premium wools. “I love this double-face cashmere knit gown,” says Wu of a sand-and-black, floor-length V-neck dress, made all the less proper by a vertiginous central slit. “It’s like a luxe pajama.”